Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city comes as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
